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Spud says... "A neat little trick to help with concentricity and bullet alignment is to soft seat the projectile before fully seating it. By this, I mean seat the bullet halfway down to the desired seating depth, spin the case around in the shell holder by 180 degrees, and then completely seat the bullet into the case. This will help with concentricity "run out" of the projectile within the case."

DIES CAN BE FURTHER SORTED BY TYPE & MAKE (USING THE FILTERS BELOW)

There are many types of dies used in reloading...

There are many types of dies used in reloading, I will try and briefly explain the main groups used and any tips for using them.

Full-length dies are used to resize the entire case, neck and body. While this does work the brass a bit more, it also allows the reloaded cartridges to be used in rifles other than the one in which the case was previously fired. One downside to sizing like this; is that the brass does get a little more worked and causes case hardening. But with modern annealing methods, this is no longer a real issue. Some brands make a bushing-style die designed to control the neck tension on the projectile once it’s seated.

Neck-sizing dies as the name implies, will resize only the neck portion of the case, without touching the shoulder or body. For cases that will be reused in the same firearm, neck sizing may be a viable option. These dies can also be called collet dies. Once again, many brands make a bushing style die in this option.

Seating dies are used to seat the projectile into the case mouth; there are a few differing styles of seating die. Some can come with vernier tops to help adjust seating depth in finer detail during load development, and some with just a basic seating plug. All seating dies partially crimped in some form, where the case mouth is tightened around the projectile. Some seating dies can have their seating stem changed for differing styles of the projectile, for instance, a VLD (Very Low Drag) style which will usually be longer than a standard shape.

Small Base dies are for bottleneck-type cases used in tight-chambering semi-automatic, pump or lever-action firearms. The sizer resizes cases below SAAMI minimums, reducing the shoulder and body by a few thousandths. These dies can also come in a full-length bushing style as well.

Crimp dies are usually used in high-recoiling magazine-fed weapons; we can introduce more crimp than a standard seating die to help alleviate the projectile slipping under recoil held in a magazine in this style of firearm. Crimping can also be used for military-style weapons where crimping on the cannelure will help maintain a more consistent pressure with less modern calibres and powders.

Body dies are designed to resize the case body and bump the shoulder position for proper chambering. They do not size the neck and are intended for cases that have become difficult to chamber after repeated firing. After using a body die, the case should be run through the neck die to achieve proper neck tension. They are sold separately or as part of a set.

If taken care of properly, reloading dies will provide years of service to their owner. Most dies are hardened and then micro-polished for that mirror internal finish many of the dies exhibit. Many are also treated with some type of rust preventative before leaving the factory floor. But dies still need some attention before they are put to use.

Clean Your Dies Before First Use

The first step in caring for your dies starts when you receive them. We advocate cleaning all new dies before you begin to use them. Remove the decapping assembly from the die body when your sizing dies. Flush the decapping group with a good degreaser (such as Hornady One-Shot Cleaner & Dry Lube, Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber, or Shooter’s Choice Quickscrub III) and clean the expander ball.

The only part of the decapping assembly that should contact your brass is the expander ball and the decapping pin. Please pay particular attention to the decapping ball because it depends on the final interior dimension (bullet grip) of your case neck. Ensure you inspect it after cleaning to ensure the surface is clean and free of burrs.

Next, flush the interior of the die body out with some more degreaser. Push a couple of wet patches through the die using a pistol cleaning rod or a dowel rod. Then, run a couple of dry patches through. Reassemble your sizing die, and you should be good to go.

Seating Die Maintenance

Taking apart your seater is pretty simple, depending on the complexity of your seating die. A standard seater requires you to turn the seating stem out of the die body, exposing the seater's interior. Flush and clean both the body and seater as described above. Benchrest sliding sleeve seaters such as Forster or Redding Competition Dies are involved in a few more parts. As you take them apart, could you ensure you know how the spring is oriented and how any other details, such as chamber sleeves or seating plugs, are arranged? Any springs or threads can be wiped down with a rag or patch lightly coated with refined oil. Could you look over the opening in the seating stem for debris? You can twist a patch and use the end to clean out the smaller calibre stems/plugs.

Regular Cleaning and Storage

Regular maintenance of your dies should include routine cleaning. Sizing dies collect excess lube off the cases, and this lube can begin to build up. We have seen dents formed in the case shoulder from the hydraulic compression of the extra lube in the die when the case was sized. We recommend cleaning the dies every 500 to 1000 rounds, depending on how frequently they are used and the cleanliness of your reloading area. For longer-term storage of your die, I recommend putting a light oil or rust preventative on them, especially if you have a shop that has a humid environment.

My reloading area is in the same building (different room) as my woodshop, and I have to watch the dust, so I keep most of my reloading dies covered or stored away. I keep a cover over my press and scales as well.

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