I often get asked, in what order should we trim, size, clean, or anneal our brass?
So, I have produced a brief timeline of how I reload and in what order. Also, when do I need to add to the basic procedures, plus a few little tweaks and tips on the way?
To reiterate, this is the way I do it. There is nothing to say that any other way is wrong or mine is correct. But after 35 years of reloading, this procedure has, time after time, proven to me that it suits my shooting style and achieves my expectations.
Click Here For the Ten Commandments of Handloading
Some safety steps first.
You should wear eye protection when turning your cases in and pointing them away.
Could you keep detailed notes of the rounds you reload and correctly label ammo boxes? The worst-case scenario is a box of ammo in the back of the gun safe that you do not know the contents of.
Do not mix powder, even the same types of powder. Please don't do it.
I like to have two reloading trays when I am reloading, one to the left of the press and one to the right of it. As I am right-handed, I move from left to right. Once I have done whatever operation I am doing when the case is transferred to the right-hand loading tray, this will help save double charges, unsized cases, etc. "contamination of operation," as I like to call it.
Try to eliminate distractions; you need to concentrate on your actions. If your mind is not in the right place for reloading, return to it when it is.
DO NOT RELOAD IF YOU ARE INTOXICATED!
GUNS & ALCOHOL OR DRUG MISUSE DO NOT MIX WELL
TAKE YOUR TIME WHEN RELOADING; IT'S NOT A RACE!
Staying Legal.
The following is a quick and easy guide to staying legal while reloading. It will be apparent to us all; I'm just putting it on the site to help the odd person who is new to reloading and may need clarification or is unsure.
Please don't reload calibres not on your certificate. You may get asked by fellow shooters to reload for them once they know how well your reloads are doing. Having the ammunition you are not legally allowed to hold is an offence. If they are insistent or want to share gear, that's fine in the following circumstances. It's okay if they sit beside you while you reload for them. They have to be physically there with you.
Only reload up to what you are allowed to hold on your certificate. Most forces will consider a primed case to count towards your allocation. As we all know, different forces interpret rules differently, so it's a good idea to always check with your force if you need clarification.
I often get asked how much powder we can store. This differs from force to force. From recent research, approx. 15kgs appears to be the average figure. If in doubt, ask your local Firearms department.
Abbreviated Time Lines
New Cases (Basic) Step 1 > 4 > 5 > 6 > 10 onwards
New Cases (Advanced with neck turning) Step 1 > 16
Once Fired Brass (Not needing any extra work at this time) Step 1 > 2 > 5 > 10 onwards
Once Fired Brass (Needing a complete trim, clean cycle) Step 1 > 16 missing out Step 7
Step 1 - Visual Case Inspection
The first step of reloading your round is a visual check of all your once-fired cases, looking for splits, case head separation, dents, or any issues that do not look safe or correct.
If you are still determining what you are looking for, a quick guide can be found here to help describe case faults and what you are looking for. Or seek help from somebody who knows what to look for if you are still trying to figure it out.
If you are starting with brand new virgin brass, you can still visually check it and then move on to step 4
IF YOU FIND ANY BIN THEM!
Step 2 - Universal Decapping
If you think your brass will need extra procedures this time, like trimming or cleaning, it is an excellent tip to pop the primer out without resizing your brass and do that later in the timeline. We can pop the primer out without resizing the case using a universal decapping die. Please ensure you have the correct one for your calibres since there can be large and small flash hole variants.
Step 3 - Case Length Trimming
As we repeatedly fire our cases, they can lengthen after a few firings. We can counteract this by trimming the case length to a set size using case trimmers. I will sort it in the timeline if my brass is too long and needs trimming. I will usually use a known trim length for that calibre. Or if one is not available, I will pull 20 random cases from the pile. I will then measure the complete length to find the shortest case. Once I have found the shortest case, I will trim the whole batch to the shortest length. This will make all cases in that batch a uniform case length. I use a lathe-style trimmer as they suit my needs well.
Step 4 - Chamfering & Deburring
Once I have trimmed my brass, I need to chamfer the inside and deburr the outside. I usually do this by hand if it is a target gun, as I get more feel for the right amount by hand. I will happily use an electric machine if it is a more do-all calibre. I usually use a VLD-style inside neck chamfer tool and an everyday RCBS deburring tool on the outside. I do as little as I can get away with both operations. Please make sure I don't leave a knife edge rim in my case, as this will not help with consistent neck tension, especially when using bushing dies. A quick twist with the hand is all that is needed. I quickly move through the station from right to left when using the electricity.
Step 5 - Primer Pocket Cleaning & Uniforming
Switching to the other end of the case now, I will always clean the primer pocket whenever the case is reloaded. I usually use a primer pocket uniforming tool to do this. I wouldn't say I like wire brushes, as they can scratch the inside of the primer pocket. As I am using a uniformer all the time. I do not need extra pocket work as it will uniform the pockets simultaneously, as I first used it to clean them. If you are using new brass, I will run it in the pocket to help square up the primer pocket floor and aid in seating the primer in the correct place.
Primer pockets are usually made by punching the case head with. a stamping tool. They can tend to leave a round corner in the bottom of the pocket; the problem is that when we seat a primer, it will not reach the pocket floor but be slightly short of it as it hits the rounded corners. By uniforming the pocket, we will square up the bottom corners, aiding the primer to sit flush against the floor up against the flash hole, where the best results for ignition can be achieved.
While cleaning and handling your brass, always watch for any defects or something that needs to be corrected.
Step 6 - Flash Hole Deburring
While uniforming the primer pocket, I will also deburr the flash hole. This is a one-time job and is best done when your brass is brand new. You don't need to do more than that; by doing this, we will allow the flash from the primer into the case to be much more uniform in size and help with even powder burns. Little burs are left inside the case as the machining produces the flash hole.
Step 7 - Neck Turning
Neck turning is an advanced reloading procedure to reduce the brass thickness of the case's neck wall. There are two types of neck turning: turning the case neck and hitting approximately lightly. 80% of the surface and trying to even the thick and thin parts of the wall thickness. We do this especially when using bushing style dies to help with even neck tension (grip) of the neck onto the loaded head.
The second reason is that we are shooting a custom gun with a tighter-than-usual neck. We must trim the neck wall thickness to a particular dimension to allow the case to enter the tighter neck in the custom chamber. Further "how-to" neck turn information will be found here on YouTube.
Step 8 - Case Cleaning
Case cleaning is not necessary! However, shooting at extended distances will help with consistent results, and it is always lovely to produce nice-looking rounds. Plus, if you are stalking, for instance, and drop your cases in the mire, you do not want to take all that debris into your excellent clean-sizing dies.
I do not clean every single time, but usually every 3rd to 4th firing when I plan to do trimming or they look like they need annealing.
I use the stainless pin wet method, cleaning them for 2 hours. Then dry them outside on a nice warm day or in the airing cupboard, NOT a cooker. There are various levels of cleaning, starting at the bottom and vibratory cleaners; these are great for the outside. They are nice and shiny cases but need help with the inside carbon build-up and are noisy. We then move on to ultrasonic cleaners; they need to cycle longer in one go to clean thoroughly, and we have to cycle 5-6 times to get decent results. Still, they will clean inside and outside; once again, they will need drying, as suggested above. The third option is stainless pins, which I use when cleaning my cases, which I only use sometimes. It will clean as well as it gets in two hours, inside and out. Job done. They will be clean on the inside but dull on the outside; if we desire shiny cases, just run them through a vibratory cleaner for half an hour to shine them up. A bit belt 'n' braces! Shiny is nice.
The accuracy gain for long-range shooting is once the inside carbon is cleaned out, we get a more consistent volumetric measurement for powder burn from shot to shot.
Step 9 - Annealing
I usually run my brass through my annealer whenever I clean my cases. I use an AMP electronic induction annealing machine. They are certainly more consistent and repeatable than the gas versions. They are also a lot easier to set up and safer to use. I have moved on to the AMP from a gas flame type annealer, and the difference in the annealing quality is night and day. If you have a gas annealer, I will anneal as little as I can get away with. Using the electronic induction method used in the AMP system, they are repeatable and consistent, so they can be used every single time you reload your cases if you want to.
Step 10 - Sizing
*Neck Only Sizing!!!!!
I do hate neck-only sizing brass. In my opinion, it is not the best practice for live quarry shooting; how do I justify that? The problem with neck-only sizing is that after 3-6 firings, your loaded rounds can become tight on the bolt-to-chamber. Say you accidentally misplace a shot on an animal, and it needs a quick second shot to finish it, and your neck-sized brass does not chamber smoothly, or you must fiddle with it. That is not desirable in my eyes; that beast (deer, fox, rabbit), whatever it is, deserves a clean, humane death, NOT to be delayed and suffer.
As for target shooting, neck sizing does not offer enough consistency for my liking, and the tight bolt issue once again can be a problem, especially if you are prone and trying to shoot smoothly and slickly. Having to mess about with tight bolts, etc., does not help with that.
Some will argue that neck sizing will only prolong the brass's life, which is true as continual sizing will harden the brass, making it more suspectable to splitting and cracking. Still, with new modern brass and annealing techniques, there needs to be a better argument for neck-only sizing.
As for fireforming the brass in the chamber and neck sizing only to keep the chamber-formed case, you will be back to the 4-6 shots before tight bolts, etc., so why not full-length size appropriately from the get-go? This will also help maintain a more uniform case volumetric measurement.
Now we have the neck sizing argument out of the way; we will return to my method...
**Full-Length Sizing
I use this method exclusively for all my reloading across 20-odd calibres.
Once fired brass, using the full-length die will correctly size the neck and reset the shoulders (headspace) to the correct dimensions; it will also pop out the old spent primer simultaneously.
How I set up my sizing die in the press,
I am making sure that the correct shell holder is in the press. I drop the press handle and raise the press ram towards the point where it will eventually meet the bottom of the sizing die. I will then start to screw the sizing die into the press, making sure that I back the outer die lock ring is backed off as well. I will continue to screw down the sizing die until it just "kisses" the top of the shell holder. Then, after lifting the press handle and dropping the ram out of the way. I will further screw down the die by no more than 1/8th of a turn. Then screw down the outer die lock so it is only finger tight against the top of the press to help keep the die in position during sizing. You will know if it is correct when you size a case. You will get a slight cam-over effect on the press handle. It is hard to describe, but you will see what I mean when you get it.
Please take a piece of brass that needs sizing and lube it by whatever method you like, but make sure that there is only a little lube hanging off the case in lumps. Ideally, you want to lube the neck into the shoulder and the top third of the case. A nice little tip for lubing is getting a cotton bud tip and putting a small amount on the inside of the case's neck to aid in lubing the expander ball inside the die. The expander ball is part of the die that will help size the neck, so keeping that lightly lubed helps stop it from getting dry and draggy.
If you buy new brass, running it through your full-sizing die is an excellent idea to help push out any little neck dents or dings that may have been made during shipping and handling.
We aim to move the shoulder back by .002", also known as resetting the headspace.
If you did not do step 2 this time, the sizing die must also pop out the primer. Once you size the case, The decapping pin must stick out of the bottom of the die, only enough to cleanly pop out the primer.
***Advanced Sizing
If you use full-length bushing dies, they can be set up the same way; you need to work out the correct bushing size for the die. The bushing die section in the shop further explains this.
Regarding step 1, full-length size only, please don't mention the neck size, and make sure your sizing die touches the shell holder when you set it up, as I have described how to.
Step 11 - Neck Tension
A new practice that has become extremely popular, and I now include nowadays, is setting the neck tension after sizing. I do this every single time after sizing, using a custom ground neck tension expander, which, after testing, I have found is best to use an expander 2, thou .002" under the calibre size, i.e., .223 Cal would use a .221" expander, etc. When using the expander, I dip the case neck in a graphite lubricant like Redding Imperial dry neck lube to help ease tension setting. Any graphite left in the neck is okay to stay there as it will help smoothly seat the projectile when we reach that point.
Step 12 - Priming
Priming is my first step in reconstructing the round after all the case prep is done! I only want to mess about with the case as much as I need to once it is resized, as I want to maintain the neck tension I have introduced into it using the sizing die and neck tension mandrel after that. I will always hand prime as the feel of a hand priming tool is better than a press-mounted one. It is a lot easier to feel if something is going wrong. After seating the primer, I am looking for it to be installed correctly in the uniformed primer pocket up against the flash hole and slightly below the flush of the case head.
Step 13 - Powder
Adding the powder now to the primed case, I will always weigh every powder charge; I DON'T dump them straight out of a powder thrower into a case; this can be dangerous. If I use an Electonic powder weigher/thrower, I will set it to .1 grains under the desired weight I am after. Adding a tenth of a grain is more accessible than continually taking it out. All electronic throwers are minus or plus .1 grain in accuracy, so I add the extra; it is easier and faster.
If I use beam scales, which I do use for some of the more precise calibres, I will set up my phone camera in front of the scale and view the level indicator through the camera. It is ultra-accurate and easier on older eyes.
Just remember there are 7000 grains to a pound, and we are talking about tenths of a grain, where one kernel can weigh on average .03 of a grain, so attention to detail here is critical to consistent, accurate rounds.
Step 14 - Projectile Seating
The last step of the construction part for your ammo is now the more critical.
When setting up the seating die on a press, I like the back of the seating stem (the part in the middle) of the die and then screw it down until it again touches the shell holder. Then, as I try and seat the projectile in the case, I can screw slowly down the seating stem in the middle to reach my desired seating depth—screwing the stem down bit by bit and measuring the length with callipers. Once I have achieved the correct seating depth, I will lock off the die with the die lock, but once again, only hand tight.
This is a quick tip to dispel some myths about (COAL) Complete Over All Length measuring for seating depth. This method is a good starting point, but I must be more accurate. I would like to use an OAL gauge, which is named wrong, but go with it for now. Using an OAL meter, we can measure from the base of the case to the Ogive on the head, giving us an accurate seating depth figure to compare and use. The Ogive is a datum point usually found where the bearing surface meets the curve's start towards the case meplat (tip). Using a modified case, we can control the correct seating depth for any projectile; some like jumping, and some like being close to the barrel's lands. Using this method, we can control this. This is further covered here.
Another factor of measuring base to Ogive is that we get repeatable seating depths. The problem with (COAL) measuring, especially using polymer-tipped heads, is that they can vary 50-60 thousand of an inch; yes, the polymer tips can change that much.
As for crimping, I do not; when I say that I do not add any extra crimp to my rounds, all seating dies by design, partially adding a small taper crimp. We control this crimp by sorting out the neck tension in step 11. If you are shooting a high-recoiling magazine-fed pistol calibre gun, then you may find you may need to add extra crimp.
Alternatively, to seating on a standard press, we can seat our projectiles using an arbor press and Wilson inline seating dies. I will use this method after extreme accuracy in the finishing stage. An inline seating die will fully support the case when the head is seated. Supporting a case like this keeps the case-to-head alignment concentricity to the tightest tolerances.
Partially sitting the projectile in the case provides a nice little accuracy gain. Turn the case round in the shell holder by 180 degrees, then fully seat the head. This will give half the concentricity in the case of projectile alignment.
In this section, I will touch on bullet pointing and meplat trimming; I have played with them and had mixed results in the past. If I use open meplats that look inconsistent, I will trim and point them using the Whidden system. But if they look okay, I tend to leave them alone. If I am trimming and pointing, I will always trim first, taking off as little as I can get away with, then point the meplat.
Step 15 - Last Check
Before shooting, the last step is to check them one last time physically. You are looking for anything that needs to look or feel right. If you find an issue or have doubts, get a bullet puller and pull them. You can always reload them...
Step 16 - Shooting Them
Shoot them and revert to step 1
As you can see from the 16 steps above, this is how I reload without needing to do every step every single time. But I will always do all my case prep before sizing the case. Sizing the case and setting the neck tension is the last part of case prep before I prime the brass. I do not want to disrupt the neck tension once it's set.
Click HERE for a link to a YouTube video I made years ago. It's a bit dated now as it's not 4k, but the information is still current and relevant.
PLEASE NOTE - IF, SAY, YOU ARE RELOADING ON A SUNDAY AFTERNOON AND GET STUCK OR NEED HELP, WE ARE ONLY A PHONE CALL AWAY; OUR PHONES ARE ALWAYS MONITORED; IF IT DOESN'T GET PICKED UP, IT MEANS SPUD IS SHOOTING! HE WILL ALWAYS RETURN A CALL THE SAME DAY AS FAST AS POSSIBLE,
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Above all, be safe and enjoy.
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