01263 739923 Phone lines are open till 10 pm, 365 days a year - The shop is open from Mon - Fri (7.30 am - 4 pm)

 

Reloading FAQ's

 

The most popular reloading questions, if you dont see the answer you need please contact us directly via phone or email.

 

What can we export abroad?

We can export most things abroad, but powders and primers are excluded. Concerning consumables (brass & projectiles), these can often be sent to your country after the correct export paperwork is completed.  All international powder and primer orders will be refunded without notice. You will need to pay any VAT charges on your end; we do not allow for these.


Can you post primers and powders to me in the UK?

Legally, we cannot ship Primers to you directly; these are classed as HAZMAT and treated the same as ammunition and are face-to-face only with a valid certificate, i.e. collection only in person. The powder can be sent. Depending on location, it will incur a HAZMAT delivery charge, often £30 or more.  Both delivery methods need paperwork sorting; we will contact you to sort this when HAZMAT is ordered.

 

Can I use large rifle Magnum primers in a standard Large Magnum load?

The answer to your question is yes. It doesn't hurt a thing to use mag primers in non-mag calibres. Just be aware that you MUST rework the load up from the beginning. Mag primers generally cause more pressure than standard primers with the same load. In some cases, the Magnum primers can yield better results.

 

How do you work up a load for a rifle?

I will look at published load data for my bullet/calibre/powder combination. Then, I will go 10% under the recommended maximum safe load. With all bullet types, I will seat the bullet ten thou of the lands as a starting point. Then I will work up my powder load in .3 grain increments until I get a good tight group with five shots, NOT 3 shots. Once I have determined a friendly group, I will try a further .1 of grain to see if it tightens up more. Then, I will tune the seating depth, keeping the best powder weight I have determined. I adjust the seating depth of the bullet according to bullet type now. A VLD-type bullet tip I will try against the lands and ten thou into the grounds (jammed), a flat base or boat tail I will try touching the lands, and I will also try 20 thou off the lands and 50 thou of the lands (jumping) I will further refine seating depth according to what my five-shot groups tell me.

 

What reloading kit do I need to get started?

I get asked by many shooters new to reloading which equipment they need to start with. I have come up with this selection of products that will cover all requirements for an entry-level. The kit has been picked because it represents value for money and performs an excellent essential starting point in the reloading world.

LEE Breech Lock Kit. This kit is a perfect basis for a no-frills basis to start with.

MTM Case Tray. Extra case tray for ease of use.

Case Lube Kit. The perfect way to lubricate cases.

Digital Callipers. An excellent way to check your case's OAL (Over All Length) after bullet seating.

Lyman Manual. Whatever you buy, get yourself a decent manual.

Kinetic Hammer. Eventually, you will make a mistake or need to pull some ammo; I still make them after 25 years of reloading. This is a cheap and effective way to pull your bullets apart.

 

Where can I find the powder and charge weight that will be okay for this calibre/bullet combination?

Most load data can be found on the powder or projectile manufacturers' websites. There is also a website called Reloaders Nest, which will list a variety of loads from its members; as with all suggested data, all loads must be worked up for both safety and the best results in your firearm. I can also advise a powder and a safe starting point for load development if needed.

 

Would you happen to know if it is cost-effective?

This is the most challenging question I get asked frequently to answer. It depends on many factors, such as calibre, the kit grade you buy, and the quantity you reload annually. If you factor out the initial cost of buying the gear, treat it as a long-term purchase, and work out prices on consumables, you will have a 20% saving on commercially accepted ammunition.

 

What press should I buy?

This is, again, a hard one to deal with. I recommend a single-stage press unless you are reloading for high-volume pistols or gallery-type calibres. There are two main reasons why I feel this way. As a newcomer to reloading with a single-stage press, you can concentrate on one station at a time compared to a progressive media, which could simultaneously have 4, 5 or 6 stations. Generally speaking, single-stage presses are built more robust and have less play. (fewer moving parts)

 

What is Obturation?

Obturation in firearms is the result of a bullet expanding or upsetting to fit the bore, or, in the case of a firearm, of a brass case expanding to seal against the chamber at the moment of firing. In the first case, this both seals the bullet in the bore, and causes the bullet to engage the barrel's rifling. In the second case, it seals the case in the chamber and prevents backward travel of gases against the bolt. The thin brass case easily seals the chamber, even in low pressure rounds.

 

How do I determine what neck bushing size I want?

There are two ways to work this little sum out: Firstly, you measure the wall thickness of your neck (with a ball micrometre, not callipers) and double it and then add the calibre size to that total then subtract .001" - .003" of the total to finish with the bushing size. Secondly, you measure across the neck of a "LOADED ROUND" to get the whole, then subtract between .001" - .003"  .001" being the loosest and .003" the tightest.

 

My Type "S" Die will not size the neck of my cases, and my bullets fall into my case with no neck tension.?

Answer: Type "S." Dies require a Bushing to size the neck of the case. Bushings are not included with the Die and are available for purchase separately.

 

What Bushing do I need for my Type "S" Die?

There are two methods for choosing the correct bushing. They are as follows:

1) Measure the neck diameter of a LOADED round or a "dummy" round that you've produced with the brass & bullets you plan to use. Subtract .002 from the diameter you measure to select the correct bushing size.

a. a Micrometer is advised for these measurements, but a Dial Caliper may be used if a Micrometer is unavailable.

b. Measuring a sample (several) loaded rounds and using the average is advisable.

Example:

My loaded rounds measure .300 at the neck.

.300 - .002 = .298

Thus, a .298 Bushing would be appropriate.

2) If loaded/dummy rounds are unavailable, mathematically create the diameter of a loaded round using the brass & bullets you plan to use.

a. Use a Ball or Tube Micrometer (micrometre designed to measure curved surfaces) to measure the thickness of your case necks. A Redding Case Neck Gauge (PN 26400) may also measure case neck thickness.

b. Multiply this number by 2 to account for each side of our theoretical "loaded round."

c. Add a bullet diameter

d. Now subtract .002 to select the appropriate bushing size.

Example: My case necks are .014 thick.

.014 x 2 = .028

My bullet Diameter is .284

.028 + .284 = .312

Now, subtract .002 to select the appropriate bushing size.

.312 - .002 = .310

 

The neck of my rifle's chamber is.XXX, based on this, Can I select a bushing for my Type "S" Die?

No, bushings can be selected using one of the two methods outlined in FAQ # X. Bushing size depends on case neck and bullet thickness, not your chamber.

 

My Type "S" Die came with a black expander button that is too small to size the necks of my cases; what is this used for?

This item is called a Decapping Pin Retainer. As its name implies, it is designed to hold the decapping pin firmly in place while not sizing the case necks.

 

I have damaged my Decapping Rod / Decapping Pin. Is this covered under Redding's Lifetime Warranty?

This damage usually happens when the user adjusts it incorrectly. If the Decapping Rod Assembly is adjusted so that the expander button hits the head of a case during the sizing operation (adjusted too low), the Decapping Rod will bend or break. The Decapping Rod Assembly should be adjusted so that the decapping pin protrudes from the bottom of the Die approximately 3/16 inch (about the thickness of two Nickels).
While not covered under the Warranty, Redding Reloading will happily replace one (1) Decapping Rod for a customer who damages theirs. Subsequent Decapping Rod Assemblies can be purchased directly from a Redding Dealer or us. So, as you know, this does not apply to the Competition Neck Sizing Die. Competition Neck Sizing Dies must be sent to Redding Reloading for any repair work.

Please email Techline@Redding-Reloading .com should you require a replacement Decapping Rod Assembly.

 

My Redding Bullet Seating Die is leaving a ring around the Ogive of my VLD Style Bullet; what should I do about this?

Redding has developed a Bullet Seating Micrometer that will replace the existing seating plug in your standard Redding Seating Die. They are available for bullets with standard profiles or VLD VLD-style bullets. For more details, please look at the current Redding Reloading Equipment Catalog or www.Redding-Reloading.com.

 

My Redding Competition Seating Die is leaving a ring around the Ogive of my VLD Style Bullet; what should I do about this?

Answer: Redding has developed a replacement seating stem for VLD-style bullets. This VLD Seating Stem will replace the existing Seating Stem in your Die. These items are available for purchase from select Redding Reloading Equipment Dealers.

 

My Decapping Pin keeps falling out of my Decapping Rod. Is my Decapping rod broken?

No, your Decapping Pin is not broken. To remedy the situation, remove the Expander Button and Decapping Pin and squeeze the "jaw" that holds the pin gently with pliers. You can install the decapping pin (which may require some force) and the Expander Button.

 

Does Redding manufacture a Decapping Pin for use with small Flash Holes?

Yes, These small pins (part number 01059)

 

I am new to reloading, but I want the best Die Set that money can buy. What Dies should I purchase?

Could you speak to Spud for advice?

 

How to set a Full Length/Body Die up to Cam-Over:

1) Install the appropriate Shellholder into the RAM of your Press.

2) Raise the Ram so that it is in its uppermost position.

3) Screw the Full-Length Resizing Die/Body Die into the press until it firmly contacts the shell holder.

4) Back the Ram away from the Die.

5) Screw the Die down FURTHER into your press an additional 1/8th to ¼ turn.

Note that you will feel the Ram/Shellholder contact the resizing Die before the stroke is completed. Completing the Ram Stroke will feel like you snapping the toolbox latch.

These directions apply only to standard single-stage presses. If Redding Reloading Equipment did not manufacture your single-stage press, please contact the manufacturer to see if Cam-Over is appropriate for your particular Reloading Press.

 

My Titanium Carbide Resizing Die is leaving a ring on the bottom of my case. Is there something wrong with my Die?

The size of the carbide ring inside a Titanium Carbide Sizing Die must be small enough to allow the case to accept a bullet with adequate neck tension. Thus, the bottom of a case may be sized a little more than it should. Usually, backing the Die away from the shell holder to size approximately ½ of the case or enough of the case to hold the bullet will rectify the problem. Redding's Dual Ring Carbide Sizing Dies was developed to solve this problem...

© 2024 1967spud Reloading Supplies Ltd. All rights reserved. | All prices include VAT. 153724219 | Company registered in England and Wales No 09475093 | RFD 36/2491 Norfolk.